ViaMichelin om Oslo: A capital in sync with nature

Michelins har i sitt nyhets­brev Via­Michelin den­ne gang valgt å pro­fi­le­re Oslo under over­skrif­ten Oslo — a capi­tal in sync with natu­re.

Before lea­ving to explo­re the fjords of the Northern coast, which are amongst the most specta­cu­lar lands­ca­pes in Euro­pe, take time to visit Oslo! The oldest Scan­di­na­vi­an capi­tal cap­tu­res the quin­t­es­sen­ce of the nation’s cul­tu­re and gastro­no­my in excep­tio­nal set­tings.

Jeg må nok med­gi at det var nytt for meg at Oslo er “The oldest Scan­di­na­vi­an capi­tal”. Så vidt meg bekjent er både Stock­holm og Køben­havn eld­re — i alle fall som hoved­ste­der og ordent­li­ge byer. Men det er ikke noen grunn til å hen­ge seg opp i det. De anbe­fa­ler folk å bru­ke tre dager på Oslo.

Går man inn i detal­je­ne fin­ner man nok et og annet som ikke stem­mer. Det er f.eks. helt nytt for meg at folk tar fer­je eller drar med sine seil­bå­ter til Hver­ven­buk­ta, Kat­ten, Ingi­er­strand og Fisk­voll­buk­ta om som­mer­en. Men det stem­mer litt bed­re for Lang­øy­ene og Hoved­øya, selv om hel­ler ikke dis­se er noe typisk mål for sei­ler­ne.

I dis­se tider med Røk­ke-bråk mer­ker en seg også at de ikke helt har fått med seg detal­je­ne her, når de skri­ver:

inclu­ding the office of Norway’s most famous busi­ness­man, the ex prawn fis­her­man Kjell Inge Røk­ke; in the sum­mer­time you can buy prawns from the fish­ing boat from which he made his for­tu­ne.”

Det var nok ikke i reke­trå­le­ren ved Aker bryg­ge  Røk­ke skap­te sin for­mue.

De skry­ter at musik­ken. “Oslo is now musi­cal­ly one of the most exci­ting towns in Euro­pe”, skri­ver de, og frem­he­ver (selv­føl­ge­lig) Ope­ra­en.

I spal­ten om res­tau­ran­ter frem­he­ves og omta­les Baga­tel­le, og skri­ver føl­gen­de i ingres­sen: “In Oslo you will come across one of the most exi­ting chefs in Euro­pe: Eyvind Hell­strøm (two stars in the 2009 Michelin Guide.)”  Over­skrif­ten på artik­ke­len er “Baga­tel­le res­tau­rant: Eyvind Hell­strøm, Geni­us of the Fjords”.

For en mat­in­ter­es­sert nord­mann som synes det er vel­dig gle­de­lig at nors­ke kok­ker har hev­det seg så godt inter­na­sjo­nalt er det fris­ten­de å site­re mye:

The last few years the­re has been a lot of talk (per­haps too much?) about Spain’s “culi­na­ry revo­lu­tion” which took place in the 1990’s and begin­ning of the 2000’s, a revo­lu­tion which should be attri­buted to the geni­us of a hand­ful of cha­ris­ma­tic chefs. The best known of these are Fer­ran Adria, Mar­tin Bera­sate­gui, Juan Mari Arzak, Pedro Subi­ja­na and the Roca brot­hers (just to name a few!)

The­re has, how­e­ver, been very litt­le inte­rest in Scandinavia’s sud­den emer­gen­ce at the fore­front of the world gastro­no­mic sce­ne. What good can come from these Nor­dic countries apart from grave­lax (sal­mon mari­nated in salt and sugar), rak­fisk (fer­men­ted tro­ut) and whale steak, not for­get­ting the tra­ditio­nal gril­led pork bel­ly served at Chris­t­mas?

Yet one has to just look at the figu­res to dis­cover that, in this part of Euro­pe, somet­hing out of the ordi­na­ry is taking place. In Nor­way alo­ne four chefs have car­ried off the famous Bocu­se d’Or prize: Geir Skeie in 2009, Char­les Tjessem in 2003, Ter­je Ness in 1999 and Bent Stan­sen in 1993; two others rece­i­ved the Sil­ver Bocu­se: Tom Vic­tor Gaus­dal in 2005 and Lars Erik Undert­hun in 1991; and one Bron­ze Bocu­se: Odd Ivar Sol­vold in 1997. In 2009 Sweden won second place and Den­mark were fourth!

This new gene­ra­tion of Nor­dic chefs owes eve­rything to one man: the great Nor­we­gi­an Eyvind Hell­strøm.

Litt len­ger nede står det:

Eyvind Hell­strøm is con­side­red by Paul Bocu­se (who made him Che­va­li­er of the Légion d’honneur in 2007) to be “one of the grea­test.” Hell­strøm has mana­ged to make his Baga­tel­le res­tau­rant in Oslo one of the finest dining expe­ri­en­ces in Euro­pe, which is no mean feat. To pull this off he had to car­ry out the pati­ent work of edu­ca­ting his com­pa­triots, hit­her­to experts only in snacks and fro­zen foods.”

Til alle Oslo-folk som liker å lese litt skryt om sin egen by (og and­re), les de to artik­le­ne.

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